Traveling during a pandemic is not advised, yet as more people are vaccinated and restrictions ease, Mexico is always a good option since, for better or for worse, our borders never closed down. This was particularly convenient for many of us with loved ones in other countries so we could meet because #LoveIsNotTourism.
Be advised that this is a different type of post where I share my experience avoiding crowds, bars, and tourist areas at all costs during this trip. I instead rented a car and traveled to virgin beaches and local restaurants. These are recommendations for anyone who visits Quintana Roo in search of a local experience.
Let’s start by stating that I felt very safe during my visit to Quintana Roo. Locals, vendors, waiters, and everyone I encountered wore their masks properly at ALL times. Even on the street despite the warm weather! Locals were specially considerate with keeping their distance, something I haven’t truly experienced anywhere else. This trip can be a safe and relaxed experience if you’re looking for a getaway in a beautiful destination, and most importantly, there are plenty of places where you can enjoy amazing food.
Where to Stay in Cancún
Playa del Carmen is a good halfway point between Cancún and Tulum but for the sake of saving money in lodging during my one-week stay, we opted for a well rated Airbnb in Cancún. It was near the main highway that goes by the hotel area and about 30 minutes away from the airport. We could walk to the beach and find many locals on our path with the exception of other Mexican tourists, making it a relaxing environment and very quiet at night.
We also stayed at Hotel Krystal Cancún on our last night. The joint beach is gorgeous and the water so crystal clear I could see little fish biting at my toes before they were swept away by the waves. The hotel offered many lounge chairs with and without shade. It also had an inexpensive cafe and bar by the pools. The only downside was that the hotel was too big for having only 2 elevators leading to the rooms. This made the waiting times long and impossible to keep our distance in the small elevator. Other positives sides to the hotel were that it was very clean, parking was free, and it offered antigen and PCR tests for guests who needed them for their travel.
The Best Beaches in Cancún
The hotel area in Cancún is a large península with plenty of different beaches. Playa Gaviota Azul is located next to Hotel Krystal Cancún. Besides the soft, clean sand, and the clear water, it’s important to note that it’s a public beach with direct access from all the nearby hotels. Due to its location, it was always crowded since tourists could park at the hotels for a fee if they were not guests.
… you could walk for miles and pretend that you’re walking on water.
There are many other beaches to sunbathe in besides the ones in the hotel area, especially if you’re looking to avoid crowds. Isla Blanca is a hidden gem that is worth the drive. After 30 minutes or so of driving off-road through the jungle (I did this in a sedan so it wasn’t too bad) we made it to this gorgeous virgin beach. It’s supposed to be free but after a small restaurant opened, the owner set up a “parking space” for $100 MXN (approximately $5 USD), it was really just a rope blocking the entrance to the sand. They also added lounge chairs with shade for $200 MXN per chair, as well as clean restrooms for $10 MXN each time you entered. The inconvenience is that even if you eat at the restaurant, you still have to pay separately for everything else. The silver lining is that it’s much cheaper than the hotel area and you won’t have a need for anything during your stay… if you bring enough cash.
Isla Blanca is also famous amongst locals for its neighboring lake. The lake is right next to the sea and it’s also very shallow, so you could walk for what felt like miles and pretend like you’re walking on water. This area is different from other beaches we visited, it is calm, picturesque and private.
Our Airbnb was near El Niño Beach, where we encountered few tourists but plenty of locals in the afternoon. There are plenty of restaurants conveniently located on the beach. These restaurants get their fresh seafood daily since they’re located next to where the fishermen park their lanchas (small boats).
Where to eat in Cancún
A fun thing to do while in the Riviera Maya is eating at a restaurant on the beach. This means you can choose from the tables on the platform overlooking the sea, or the tables on the beach where you can dig your toes into the sand and eat next to the sea. There are many choices of restaurants on the beach so beware of the tourists’ traps. A good way to distinguish a local option is from their menu and patrons – are they local or foreign tourists?
Our Airbnb host recommended a seafood restaurant on the beach comfortably located near our Airbnb in Cancún. Restaurante Kukulcán felt like a safe choice because besides being outdoors it is also spacious but most importantly, it was delicious! The menu offered local dishes such as Pulpo en su Tinta (octopus in its ink) and Pescado Tikinxic (fish fillet in local sauce) at surprisingly affordable prices. Besides the amazing view, the good service, the clean restaurant, it also offered free parking.
Another great local spot we found is near the artesanal market. Emera Antojios Yucatecos offers a delicious taste of the neighboring state Yucatán, which is gastronomically famous in México and best known for its Cochinita Pibil. If you’ve ever seen Once Upon a Time in México, you might remember Johnny Depp’s obsession with this dish. The easiest way to describe Cochinita Pibil is by comparing it with a slightly more sweet and sour version of slow pulled pork. I know I’m committing blasphemy to Yucatecos by comparing it so I invite you to try for yourself while in the Riviera Maya.
Emera Antojitos Yucatecos is not only conveniently located near the artisanal market, it is also affordable and the service was impressive, it felt like a family-owned business. The waiter took the time to explain each dish and even offer a platter where we could try a little bit of everything including Cochinita Pibil and Panuchos, which are kinda like empanadas but a million times better! We also felt safe here since it was outdoors and very clean.
During our stay in the hotel area, I found a healthy restaurant that was within walking distance of our hotel. Restaurante Natura has a varied menu for everyone including vegetarian and vegan options, as well as a long list of juices and smoothies. I opted for a popular Mexican breakfast, Huevos Bandera (flag eggs) – Eggs over a fried corn tortilla covered in green and red sauce, and as always… served with beans. The green sauce is tomatillo which a green, small, and sour tomato commonly used for fresh salsas in México. Restaurante Natura is underneath a hostel so expect it to be busy, especially late in the morning. The restaurant is clean with friendly staff and it is also very cute and felt like we were eating in a garden despite being on the main road, Blvd. Kukulcan.
On our last night, I did something touristy that I have never done before. I had dinner at a fancy restaurant in a shopping mall. In my defense, I was looking for something quick and on the way to the airport but I was pleasantly surprised. Inside the Plaza La Isla II Shopping Mall, I asked the guy in the informational booth for a recommendation. He gave me coupons for La 3a Ronda which despite its fancy decor, the dishes were plentiful and prices affordable. Most importantly, dinner and the view were phenomenal. I ordered the Panuchos after falling in love with them at Emera Antojitos. In a better attempt to describe it, a Panucho is a fried thin corn tortilla filled with beans, it can also have Cochinita Pibil or chicken. This last meal in Cancún was a piece of art. It was beautifully presented and exquisite is an understatement.
Last but not least, after much trial and error, we found the perfect coffee place. It was difficult finding a spot where the espresso did not come from a capsule or where the macchiato and cappuccino had a good balance of coffee and milk. We also enjoyed a nice breakfast that could also be a light lunch or snack. My favorite was the Torta Tradicional with panela cheese (fresh cheese), avocado, and their special sauce. The young attendants were so friendly and their superb service had us coming back – like 5 days in a row! If you’re looking for amazing coffee with outdoor seating, centrally located, friendly staff, and a delicious healthy menu, then I truly recommend Traditions Art Cafe Latte.
Although this trip was not the typical Cancún vacation, we enjoyed our time thoroughly. With so many beaches and affordable local restaurants, I wish we could’ve spent another week in paradise. I look forward to coming back post-pandemic and haggle at the artisanal market, explore the many archeological sites, and dive into the famous Cenotes. These are sinkholes in the middle of the jungle or near the beach that lead to the sea. Some Cenotes are connected through underwater rivers that cross caves with bats and fish of all sizes and colors. Cenotes of all swimming levels are located all over the Riviera Maya with some of the most famous ones in Tulum and in the state of Yucatán.
In the meantime, if you’re aching for vacations but travel restrictions and warnings have you hesitating, I hope you consider Cancún not only an accesible destination, but a safe one as well. México depends so much on tourism that some places have gone above and beyond to make travelers feel safe and Quintana Roo is definitely on that list. It is up to the tourists to respect the enforcements and explore safely. Whenever you visit Cancún, I hope you’ll enjoy every minute of it… always remember to BE PRESENT.
